By sharing our concerns and successes, we all benefit.

Animals live to serve us one way or another, so knowing how to take care of them is critical for our mutual well being.

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Racing greyhounds

I hope you enjoy this video of greyhounds.  Racing greyhounds captured on film doing what they love.....running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbHzLY9VFgk&feature=related

YouTube - Training Dogs for Greyhound Racing : Sprinting Practice for Greyhound Racing Training

The dogs have a great time at this sprint training center. They run for the love of running.
YouTube - Training Dogs for Greyhound Racing : Sprinting Practice for Greyhound Racing Training

YouTube - Canine Angel saves Boy from Cougar - Dog fights off Wild Animal

This is such a great story about a golden retriever saving her boy from a cougar attack.
 YouTube - Canine Angel saves Boy from Cougar - Dog fights off Wild Animal

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Dangers of raw pet foods: A Better Alternative

Fresh foods fed in variety are without question the perfect form of nutrition. Appropriately designed cat and dog supplements to help reduce the risk of food-borne pathogens and oxidation, and to help balance high meat meals and provide a spectrum of vegetable-based nutrients and nutraceuticals such as Wysong has developed can also be of great benefit. Anything less than this is a compromise. The next best alternative is packaged dried raw foods that have incorporated in them food technology to impede pathogens, parasites and oxidation. The low water activity of these products is a great inhibitor of pathogens and the low level of moisture make storage and shipping efficient and environmentally friendly. (See our Wysong TNT™ raw dog and cat foods .) Good quality table scraps and properly designed dry pet foods and canned pet foods can be mixed into the diet rotation with benefit as well.
Consumers must learn the principles of fresh foods fed in variety and to trust in nature. Every pet owner desires the best for their pet and they are correct in thinking food is an essential element in achieving that goal. But it is incorrect to believe that another person can do more for their pet’s health than they can do themselves. All that is required is a little understanding and use of common sense. To that end we provide a free e-Health Letter, a free one-hour CD by Dr. Wysong entitled, “The Thinking Person’s Master Key To Health,” healthy product alternatives designed intelligently with health as the number one objective, and books and recipes for anyone wanting to take control of their own and their family’s and pet’s health destiny so as not be led down health destructive primrose marketing paths.
(Note: Although the authors are associated with the technical development of the Wysong products mentioned above, the reader should not misconstrue the information as a commercial inducement. Wysong will teach people for free how to fresh-food-feed using only products purchased in the meat and vegetable aisles in the grocery. Although Wysong products provide convenient and supplemental alternatives and variety, no Wysong product is required to be purchased in order to achieve this superior method of feeding. The position is taken at Wysong that health professionals [which we are] have an ethical responsibility to help people prevent disease and thus are duty bound to teach people how to not need their services. So that is exactly what we do. Wysong pet products are a mere tool to help people along that path to the ideal goal of health self-sufficiency.)

Dangers of raw pet foods: Environmental

We live in an age of pollution and energy diminishment. RF pet foods require a tremendous amount of refrigeration and equipment all along the supply path. Freezing is energy inefficient and consumes valuable energy resources. Since RF pet foods are 70% water (at least) there are huge resources wasted in freezing and transporting the tons of this food-contained water through the supply chain. Along with all the equipment, trucking, freezing and frozen water handling inefficiency comes the pollution that parallels such industry.

Dangers of raw pet foods: Packaging

The best packaging for any pet food, particularly RF pet foods, is light- and oxygen-barrier and modified atmosphere flushed. In the absence of this, oxidation proceeds rendering the lipids toxic. None of the producers surveyed employed these technologies that we could detect. Even if they did, the other problems and dangers listed above would remain.

Dangers of raw pet foods: Parasites Are Ignored

– A wide range of parasites can be found within RF pet foods. Although there is technology in terms of freezing and natural ingredients that can be used to thwart this problem, none of the producers examined employed any of it that we could detect.

Dangers of raw pet foods: Quality



In order to make their foods anywhere near affordable, RF pet food producers must search the ingredient market for items that can carry the name of real food but may in fact be only a hollow shell of the real thing. Inferior meat and organ ingredients, heat processed grains and vegetable riffraff (for example “broccoli” on a label may really be broccoli stems – like eating a branch from an apple tree rather than the apple) are used because they are of low cost. That is not to say the marketing brochures and labels do not make it appear as though the brand is not a true gourmet meal. If one reviews the various labels it becomes clear that the race is on to see who can put the fanciest and most exotic ingredients on labels ... as if that is the road to pet health. (It is not.) In a brief ingredient survey this is what we found:
Every manner of “pureed” vegetable Organic beef, rabbit, chicken, turkey, goat, lamb, duck, pork Organic honey Organic papaya, persimmons, blueberries, oranges, apples, pears Organic yogurt Organic alfalfa, millet, quinoa and barley sprouts Wheat grass Nettles Bok choy Cultured kefir Cod liver oil Capsicum Watermelon
The reader is challenged to go to the store and total up the cost of such ingredients. Some of the organic ingredients can cost over $15 per pound. But the RF pet diets containing them can retail for as little as $2-4 per pound. Take away margins for distributors and retail stores and the producer is selling them wholesale for close to a dollar per pound. Now on top of the cost of ingredients is the production, advertising, packaging, freezing and in some cases a sales force making six figures. Something most certainly does not add up. The only thing that can be missing is true ingredient quality. But how can the label say these expensive ingredients are in the food? All the RF pet food producer needs to do is put in pinches of the expensive ingredients just to say they are there.
The only economic hope for a RF pet food producer is to create the perception of “value added.” They simply could not put the costly ingredients in the food to any degree and make a profit for themselves and all the middlemen up and down the chain. The price they would have to charge would be ridiculous. In effect, in order to be successful, producers must become accomplished at propaganda, not health and nutrition.
Consumers interested in cutting through to the truth do themselves and their pets a service by going to the grocery store with a list of the ingredients ostensibly in a RF pet diet. Although some RF diets in the lower price range appear to not be attempting to mislead, consumers should do the math comparing the exotic ingredients in RF pet foods to the prices for the real thing in the store and decide for themselves whether either value or honesty resides in RF pet products.

Dangers of raw pet foods: Temperature And Time Are Critical

– Ice nucleation, as opposed to ice crystallization, is the primary vector in producing a stable, tasty, frozen pet product. Freezing is a technically complex process based on the optimum combination of temperature and time, amongst other factors. In the wrong processor’s hands, slips in proper freezing care can lead to a microbiologically unstable product and/or a sensory inferior one. Rapid freezing leads to nucleation, thereby preventing undesirable large ice crystals from forming throughout the product. With rapid freezing the molecules don’t have time to form positions in the characteristic six-sided snowflake, so nucleation overrides crystallization. On the other hand, slow freezing (the usual RF pet food situation) creates large ice crystals, which on thawing causes cellular damage to the meat. This in turn causes meat to “drip” – lose juiciness – and form a perfect liquid medium for bacterial growth.

Mycotoxins Go Undetected

– RF pet foods, particularly those that are a mix of cooked grains (which of course negates the claim for “rawness”) and vegetables, can contain mycotoxins. None of the RF pet food producers surveyed addressed this problem.

Dangers of raw pet foods: Microwave Thawing Dangers

 – If RF pet foods are thawed in the microwave as a matter of convenience, the value of the food is greatly compromised. Microwaves can virtually boil the liquid phase within cells and electromagnetically alter important food components rendering them not only useless nutritionally, but toxic as wel

Dangers of raw pet foods: Supply Chain Time Dangers

– Time is the enemy of nutrition and safety. The longer the time between the farmer’s field and the belly, the greater the potential problems. RF pet foods create the illusion that time is not a factor. Because the frozen state masks toxins and odors, the consumer can be given the impression of value and freshness when, in fact, they may be getting age and toxicity.

Dangers of raw pet foods: Mold and Mycotoxins in Rabbit Feed

Mold and Mycotoxins in Rabbit Feed
Mold and toxins from mold can be harmful and even deadly to rabbits. Molds usually grow under specific conditions of temperature and humidity or in diseased/saturated soil. Moldy feeds may cause a variety of health problems in rabbits and humans, especially respiratory disease from breathing in mold spores. Moldy feeds are also less palatable and may cause a reduction in feed intake, resulting in weight loss.
When molds are shocked by sudden fluctuations in temperature (freezes or hot spells), they exude poisons called mycotoxins.
Types of mold that can be found in rabbit feed:
  • Aspergillus (yellow to yellow-green) -- found in corn, forages1, cottonseed, soybean2 and peanuts. Its toxin is carcinogenic, causes hemorrhaging of intestinal tract and kidneys, reduced feed intake and diarrhea, lung damage, diarrhea, liver cancer and kidney damage.
  • Rhizoctonia (brown to black) -- found especially in clover. Its toxin causes salivation, diarrhea and bloat.
  • Claviceps (brown to black) -- most common in grasses including wheat, rye and barley. Its toxin causes tremors and convulsions.
  • Penicillium (green to green-blue) -- found in corn and small grains2. Its toxins cause kidney damage, weight loss, reduced feed intake causing hemorrhaging of lung and brain tissue.
  • Fusarium (white to pinkish-white) --- found in hays, forages, soybean and cereal grains2. Its toxins cause feed refusal, acute gastrointestinal illness, immune suppression, diarrhea, entiritis, weight loss, hemorrhages of the large intestine, shock and reduced gastric and small intestine flow, necrosis of the GI tract, and death.

  • 1 Alfalfa hay is considered a forage.
    2 Rabbit pellets contain wheat middlings, soybean hulls and sometimes corn -- the "pathway" ingredients for mycotoxin contamination.
Mycotoxins are invisible, highly corrosive, deadly poisons which may persist in feed and hay even when the molds that produced them are no longer present. Mycotoxins are nearly all cytotoxic, disrupting various cellular structures such as membranes, and interfering with vital cellular processes such as protein, RNA and DNA synthesis. They destroy organ tissue by oxidizing protein, impact specific organs, and have immunosuppressive effects. Some of them produce acute toxicity, evidenced by digestive disorders or dermatitis, but many more are carcinogenic (capable of causing cancer), resulting in genetic mutations, or causing deformities in developing embryos. Mycotoxins can have very pervasive, yet subclinical, effects on animals' health that can easily go unnoticed. By the time the clinical symptoms of mycotoxin poisoning are observed, significant damage has occurred.
Improper harvesting (putting up wet hay), packaging (in air-tight plastic bags) and storage or prolonged shipping may enhance the potential for mold growth. Dirty harvesting, manufacturing/pelleting equipment and storage bins may contribute to mycotoxin contamination.
Learn to identify good quality hay.
2. What are the symptoms of mycotoxin poisoning (mycotoxicosis)?
The symptoms are wide-ranging and similar to more well-known ailments. Mycotoxins may cause:
  • Gastrointestinal problems (slowdown, delayed stomach emptying, stasis/colic, hemorrhages of the large intestine, shock, reduced gastric and small intestine flow, necrosis of the GI tract, severe bloating, impaction, shutdown without blockage, refusal to eat, weight loss, increased water consumption, vomiting, enteritis).
  • Internal bleeding, hemorrhages or bruising.
  • Stomach ulcers, mouth sores.
  • Kidney damage (nephrotoxicity).
  • Liver damage (liver lipidosis, hepatic lesions/fibrosis/swelling, degenerative changes and dystrophy).
  • Central nervous system problems (twitches, wobbling, convulsions, seizures, paralysis, spasms, tremors, incoordination, depression, headache).
  • Immunosupression (increased susceptibility to multiple bacterial and viral infections).
  • Cancer (tumorigenesis).
  • Eye problems (discharge, corneal ulcers, keratitis).
  • Lung problems (pneumonia, lung lesions, pulmonary fibrosis, hemorrhages, respiratory distress, bleeding).
  • Glandular problems (hypertrophy of the adrenal cortex glands).
  • Reproductive organ problems (impaired ovarian function, cystic ovarian degeneration development, reproductive disorders, vaginal prolapse).
  • Heart problems (damaged heart muscle, tachycardia).
  • Skin problems (skin rash, ulcerations, lesions, burning sensation, sloughing of skin, photosensitization).
  • Bone marrow and spleen problems (depletion/irreversible damage/necrosis of the myelopoietic cells in bone marrow and in splenic red pulp).
  • Blood abnormalities (decrease in blood coagulation, hematocrit and white blood cell count, leukopenia, calcium-phosphorus imbalance).
  • Rectal prolapse.
  • Vascular system (increased vascular fragility, hemorrhage into body tissues, or from lung).
  • Caustic effects on mucous membranes.
Since few veterinarians are trained in toxicology, mycotoxicosis is usually misdiagnosed.
3. How can mycotoxin poisoning be diagnosed?
The poisoning may manifest as on-and-off, chronic or acute episodes, depending on the amount of toxic feed ingested and how consistently it was fed. The damage to internal organs is cumulative over a period of time. A high incidence of gastrointestinal upsets (impactions, etc.) and of disease associated with depressed immune function (Pasteurella, etc.) may be clues that a mycotoxin problem exists. Some clinical signs which may appear in a rabbit:
  • Severe pain in the abdomen -- sudden onset, haunches flaring out, belly pressed against or writhing on the floor, bunny might be lethargic and hide in a corner.
  • A radiograph (x-ray) series may reveal gut shutdown but no physical blockage (barium barely drips through), sometimes severe bloating. Often diagnosed as GI stasis or stenosis without identifying the underlying cause.
  • Standard GI stasis treatments no longer work, GI motility drugs (Cisaspride/Metachlopromide) lose their effectiveness either because the tissue along the GI tract is necrotic/damaged or because of the overwhelming deoxynivalenol(DON)-induced inhibition of gastric emptying via serotonin receptor sites.
  • Hypothermia (low body temperature).
  • Blood abnormalities: high BUN and creatinine levels, calcium-phosphorus imbalance (which may lead to chalky urine, organ calcification), abnormal levels of liver enzymes associated with kidney/liver failure; low hematocrit/RBC due to internal bleeding.
  • Ulcers in the mouth (strange chewing and tongue motion, difficulty swallowing, teeth problems ruled out), stomach and esophagus.
  • Refusal to eat, weight loss.
  • Presence of mucous in the feces.
  • Rough hair coats.
  • Sometimes paralysis or twitching in hind limbs.
  • Multiple bunnies fall ill simultaneously in the same household.
  • Food tests positive for mycotoxins.
  • An endoscopic examination may reveal ulceration along the GI tract but this procedure is difficult to do on small animals.
  • Necropsies may show: GI bruising (often subtle), hemorrhages, stomach/GI ulcerations, mouth ulcers, kidney/liver damage (lesions, lipidosis, fibrosis, swelling, discoloration), rectal prolapse.
While many mycotoxins can be measured in environmental samples, it is not yet possible to measure mycotoxins in human or animal tissues.
4. What is the treatment for mycotoxin poisoning?

  • Sucralfate: Break one-gram tablets of Carafate (sucralfate) into quarters. Administer 1/4 tablet orally every 8-12 hours mixed with water. Drop the 1/4 tablet into a feeding syringe, hold your finger over the tip, add some water, shake it well until it is dissolved, then invert the syringe and bleed off the excess air before syringe feeding (from the side of the mouth, in the gap behind the front teeth). Ideally, it should be given on an empty stomach (one-two hours before meals). Sucralfate should be staggered 3-6 hours apart from other medications because it tends to bind with other drugs (including cimetidine = Tagamet), reducing their absorption and effectiveness. Although healing begins within one to two weeks, it should be administered for at least 3-4 weeks (sometimes up to 8 weeks) to make sure healing is complete. Do not miss a dose because it works cumulatively.
    Sucralfate is a "cytoprotective" agent that binds to the ulcerated erosion sites to form a protective barrier and promote healing. This prevents bacteria from crossing through the damaged tissue along the lining in the GI tract and entering the bloodstream, which may cause septicemia (blood poisoning). It is a very safe and effective drug.
  • Antibiotics (injectable Penicillin G) to guard against bacterial infection and septicemia/toxemia.
  • Subcutaneous fluids (in mild cases) or IV fluids (in severe cases) to flush out the toxins. Treat for renal failure with supportive therapy.
  • If severe bloating occurs, the stomach might need to be pumped (carefully) to prevent it from rupturing.
  • Ask your vet whether other anti-ulcer drugs might be helpful. Prilosec (omeprazole), which suppresses the acid "proton pump" in the gastric mucosa, has proven very effective in treating ulcers in horses (the closest physiological model to a rabbit; both are single-stomached hindgut fermenters). Zantac (Ranitidine HCl), which reduces the production of stomach acid by inhibiting histamine, is much more effective than Tagamet (cimetidine).
  • Note: Bunnies may have sensitive GI tracts for awhile. Fluids and sucralfate should be re-administered at any sign of discomfort during the following months.
  • 5. What should I feed a rabbit who is suffering from mycotoxicosis?

  • Do not feed old hay and pellets. Buy new feed, a different brand if possible.
  • Fresh veggies might be the only food the bunny can tolerate for several weeks (the fiber in hay might be too rough) due to its damaged GI tract. Provide a variety (kale, dandelion greens, romaine lettuce, carrot tops, dill, fennel, mint, etc.) several times a day.
  • Keep hay and clean, fresh water available at all times. Oat hay and oat seed tops might be the first things the bunny will want to eat.
  • Feed wheat bran soaked in warm water (with wheat germ and Quaker oats added for taste) then drained and cooled, once per day. This provides protein to help repair the damaged GI tract.
  • The effects can be partially counteracted by an antioxidant such as vitamin E. Vitamin A, selenium and zinc, Thiamine and other B vitamins may prove beneficial. Milk thistle can be helpful in treating liver damage.
  • Vitamin K1 (menadione) can be administered to stop internal bleeding.
  • 6. How can I tell if my bunny's food is contaminated?

  • Have all hay and pellets tested at an agricultural, university, or veterinary diagnostic laboratory near you (do not send samples back to the vendor).
  • Mix the feed well before sampling. Mycotoxins are patchy, like "spots of mold on a loaf of bread". Mixing the feed well increases the chances of detecting these poisons but the tests might indicate lower levels than what the bunny actually ate (perhaps he ate from a "hot spot" of concentrated toxins). Keep two extra samples aside for further testing.
  • Make sure you ask for numerical results in parts-per-billion (ppb), down to 50 ppb if possible. Many labs are geared for large, multiple-stomached ruminant livestock (like beef cattle) so their detection levels may be set way too high (500-1,000 ppb). In this case, a feed that tests "negative" may still be dangerous to single-stomached hindgut fermenters (like rabbits and horses), who are much more sensitive to mycotoxins. See table below.
  • Test especially for DON (vomitoxin). It is a "marker" for other mycotoxins -- if it is present, then other mycotoxins are probably present as well. Test for DON, T-2, Aflatoxin, Fumonisin, Ochratoxin, Zearelanone (in that order of importance, depending on the money available for testing).
  • When multiple mycotoxins are found together in a sample, their combined synergistic effect is usually more potent than any one alone.

  • Suggested Detection Levels for Mycotoxins
    Mycotoxin Horses Pigs Children
    ages 1 - 4
    Rabbits
    Aflatoxin 50 ppb 20-100 ppb 20 ppb
    T-2 50 ppb 50 ppb
    DON 400 ppb <> 60 - 120 ppb 100 - 300 ppb
    Zearalenone 100 ppb 100 - 200 ppb 100 ppb
    Fumonisin 1,000 ppb 1,000 ppb
    Make sure you choose a lab with detection levels as low as or lower than those suggested for rabbits (above). The lower the detection levels, the better, since rabbits are one of the most sensitive animals to these toxins. Be aware that some laboratories report test results in ppm.

    ppm = parts-per-million
    ppb = parts-per-billion
    1 ppm = 1000 ppb
    7. How prevalent are mycotoxins in animal feed?
    Mycotoxin contamination is not an uncommon occurrence in pet foods, especially in (but not limited to) dog food. Corn, wheat middlings and soybeans are the usual "pathway" ingredients. In the past few years, there have been several cases of dog food which contained contaminated wheat middlings (the same ingredient found in many rabbit pellets). More than one hundred dogs fell ill and many died. Mycotoxins were found in two well known brands of dog food and the companies were forced to recall their products due to consumer pressure.
    In a "sell it down the road" strategy, grain dealers often dump products which are deemed "unfit for human consumption" on the pet food industry to avoid suffering economic losses. There are few standards or government regulations in place, so pet food companies rarely feel compelled to institute quality-control programs that detect mycotoxins in their products.
    Of nearly 100 samples of rabbit feed (30 different products) from the caregivers of both sick and healthy rabbits, from pet stores, from vet clinics, and shipped directly by companies to customers, then tested by several laboratories around the country, 30% have tested positive for mycotoxins. Mycotoxins were found in alfalfa hay, timothy and alfalfa pellets, powdered food intended for sick/baby rabbits, and seed-based feed used by breeders. Recent laboratory test results suggest that the contamination is more prevalent among certain brands. 50% of one specific product contained mycotoxins.
    The feeds which tested positive came from households where bunnies were sick or had died. Some samples which tested positive were not fed to rabbits. In two cases, the feed tested positive before the bunnies showed any symptoms; one of these rabbits died a couple of weeks later, both rabbits suffered severe kidney damage.
    The mycotoxins found in rabbit feed so far were DON, T-2 and ZEAR. Keep in mind that there are more than 400 mycotoxins and these products were only tested for a few. More sampling, testing and analyses of the effects of mycotoxins on domestic animals are needed. If you have had or wish to have your feed tested, please let me know.
    8. Where can I learn more about mycotoxins?
    Take a look at the following web sites:
    Cristina Forbes, Ph.D.
    Licensed Wildlife Rehabilitator
    Specialty: rabbits
    Disclaimer: I am neither a vet nor a toxicologist. This information was obtained from several different sources, including scientific literature, talks with veterinarians, toxicologists, professors of toxicology, laboratory personnel, mycotoxin experts and from my own experience. For more information, call your state's agricultural/vet diagnostic/university laboratory or your county extension office.

    Economics

    Consumers are under the mistaken assumption that a nondescript package mix of ingredients with an officious label and from a producer posing as a nutritional authority (none of the producers we examined had people at the helm with expertise or credentials) would be the best choice. Little do they realize that they could avoid essentially all of the caveats listed above by simply going to the grocer and buying fresh meats and produce. Pets do not require every nutrient in existence at every meal, as is the impression given by the 100% complete RF pet food producers, and for that matter the rest of the pet food industry. Why would people choose to pay a producer to mix inferior ingredients, package them, label them, freeze them, transport them, advertise them and pay the margin for the producer, the distributor, sales force and the retailer when they can avoid all that cost and put their money into real quality fresh foods? Some people are so convinced that RF pet food manufacturers perform some sort of magic that they will pay to have such foods put in special insulated containers packed with dry ice and overnight delivered! This is particularly ridiculous when one considers that no real convenience – and certainly no health or nutritional value – is added in the process. The consumer still has to go to the store and buy something.
    At the grocer a person can buy fresh, raw, untainted meats and produce appropriate for pet carnivores at less than $1 per pound. Slightly out-of-date meats, sale items, trimmings or other still excellent products that cannot be put in the meat case can be even less. True, if you are to purchase the ingredients listed above in perfect human grade organic form (as many RF pet food producers boast) the cost could be far greater. But at least you would know what you are getting. RF pet foods can cost as much as $7 per pound with an average of about $3-4 per pound (not including shipping to the customer’s door) and most of that cost is going into freezing, transportation and profits through a whole chain of participants. Here is a case where a consumer gets to pay more (a whole lot more) and get less (a whole lot less).

    Undetected Freeze-Thaw Cycles

    – The transit time of RF pet foods from the processor (or John Doe’s kitchen) to the distributor, to the stores and eventually to the consumer is very critical. Although freezer delivery trucks might putatively maintain stable product temperatures, lack of thermocouples fitted in the truck to show temperature readings, and/or inadequate TTIs (time-temperature indicators) can lead to microbiologically infested products without any visible spoilage signs. If the refrigeration in any part of the supply chain fails temporarily and then goes back to frozen (freeze-thaw-freeze), the consumer would never know of this abuse and danger.

    The High Risk In Thawing

    – Thawing is another critical phase in the freezing process as it involves a change from crystal ice to melted water, which upon reabsorption results in microbial reactivation. Pathogenic bacteria inherently contaminate raw meat, fish, and poultry and will begin to multiply again when the temperature reaches just 29.3º F – which is below freezing! Thus a product that may appear subjectively frozen could be a veritable incubator of pathogens. When consumers attempt to thaw RF pe foods, dangers dramatically increase. The surface temperature rises long before the interior is sufficiently thawed to serve. For example, it takes about 15 hours for the middle of a 22-pound turkey to get to 32º F. In the interim the surface temperature rises to 53º F. In this amount of time there would be about 4 multiplications of spoilage bacteria as well as non-detectable multiplications of pathogens.

    The FDA Model Food Code (1999) recommends that food be thawed in the refrigerator or in flowing water. Thawing RF food in the refrigerator can be inefficient and time consuming, in addition to occupying refrigeration space required for other food items. Most of all, this lengthy procedure can lead to the risk of cross-contamination when the drip from the raw meat comes in contact with ready-to-eat food stored in the refrigerator. In the alternative, consumers usually put the RF pet food out at room temperature, creating the perfect circumstance for pathogen proliferation.

    Frozen Pet Foods Can Lead To Acidemia

     – Tissue degradation and oxidation under high heat freezing (above 29° F), which occurs along the supply chain with RF pet products also leads to acidification. Increasing acid consumption can contribute to acidemia that lies at the base of virtually every chronic degenerative disease plaguing modern pets. (See references below.)

    Frozen Pet Products Are Not Inert To Degradation

    – In frozen storage there is deterioration in organoleptic quality – meat texture, fat turning granular and crumbly, and discoloration. Microbial enzymes also remain active, especially lipases that break down fats increasing their susceptibility to oxidation.

    Dangers of raw pet foods: Freezer Burn Indicates A More Serious Problem

    – Air reaching the meat surface is the cause for the freezer burns that result in the typical grayish-brown leathery spots. Frozen water on the surface or just beneath it sublimates (from solid state directly to vapor) into the air, causing moisture to be lost from the meat over time resulting in discoloration and a dry, leathery texture. Proper pet food packaging helps maintain quality and prevent freezer burn, however most packaging is permeable to air. The prevalence of freezer burn in RF pet products speaks to the fact that the product is being oxidized and with that creating free radical toxins to lay the seeds for various degenerative diseases.

    Tuesday, June 22, 2010

    Dangers of raw pet foods: Free Radical Problems Masked

    – Essential fatty acids and other health enhancing lipids are critical in the diet. Once foods are ground, mixed, exposed to air, light and pro-oxidants such as heme iron and other metals found in plant and animal tissue, the contained lipids are oxidized to chain reaction producing free-radicals, causing rancidity and oxidant toxins. Freezing at appropriately low temperatures slows this process but does not stop it. The temperature in conventional freezers used for RF pet foods is not insurance against such oxidation. Because the frozen state masks olfactory detection of rancidity, foods that would be otherwise rejected end up being consumed. The free-radical pathology potential can then work its chronic degenerative disease and immune weakening effects.

    Freezing Masks Inedibles

    – Raw meat and organ tissue continues to use ATP (source of energy) until it is exhausted and the tissue enters a state of rigor. Endogenous enzymatic activity within the tissue continues to digest the muscle tissue (proteolysis) softening it until it becomes tender and develops the typical palatable taste. This process is retarded by cold. The freezing of properly aged meat presents few problems, however, any residual ATP present in the tissue during freezing will contract the muscle upon thawing resulting in a more unpalatable product. Mixed RF pet foods would hide this problem.

    Dangers of raw pet foods: Problems Are Ignored By Producers

    – RF food pathogens include not only bacteria, but fungi, viruses and parasites. Toxins include those from molds (mycotoxins), bacteria and those created by oxidation. In our study of RF pet products in the stream of commerce, not one producer addressed these concerns with any technological know-how that we could discern, and most did not even acknowledge the problems potentially lurking in their foods.

    Dangers of raw pet foods: Raw Frozen Foods Are Not “100% Complete”

    – Many RF foods make (or imply) the same spurious 100% complete and balanced pet food claim as heat processed foods and thus carry with them the same health dangers. Feeding any food exclusively, let alone a nondescript packaged food containing who-knows-what from who-knows-what manufacturing environment is a bad choice if health and safety are of concern. (See The Truth About Pet Foods by Dr. Wysong).

    Dangers of raw pet foods

    Producers With Only Kitchen Technology – Because of the minimal technology required to produce a RF pet food, essentially anyone regardless of credentials or expertise can bring a product to market. All one needs to do is grind and mix ingredients in a kitchen, package and put in a freezer. There are no controls over the conditions in the kitchen, the quality of the ingredients or the method of freezing. All these factors can dramatically influence the nutritional value and pathogenic and toxic content of the food. But being in a frozen state hides these potential dangers and therefore poses a threat to both pets and the humans who handle the foods. John Doe can make a food under unknown conditions and with unknown ingredients, label, package, freeze and deliver to consumers or stores without one single control monitoring or impeding the process. Regulators may eventually examine the label if they happen to see it in a store (they will never see it if shipped directly to consumers) and may object to some terminology or the like; but, all John needs to do is change the label and all will be well. The product could contain every manner of ingredient, be laced with virulent pathogens, and receive the www.wysong.net/products/cat-dog-health-nutrition-truth-about-pet-foods.aegis of regulators … and into the market it goes.

    Display Packaging Causes Free Radicals

    – Light, as well as air, can promote free radical production. Retail display pet packaging that is clear or light permeable permits light to catalyze the free radical (disease promoting) process.

    The case against raw frozen pet food

    R. Wysong, DVM, V. Savant, PhD

    For some 25 years Dr. Wysong has alerted the public to the dangers of exclusively feeding heat processed pet foods. Not only is nutrient value diminished by heat, but a spectrum of toxins are created. Additionally, the singular feeding of processed pet foods has led to the spurious “100% complete and balanced” claim that is both logically and scientifically flawed. Entrepreneurs have seized upon this information to create a spate of raw frozen (RF) pet foods to capture a market niche and to fill the demand from consumers wanting a raw alternative to standard heat processed canned, semi-moist and dried pet foods. This market trend, as with most others, may begin with some truth (raw food is the best food) but gets distorted, if not perverted, once economic opportunity enters the picture.

    Monday, June 21, 2010

    Lower Ear noogies

    A tried and true massage location, the ears are very sensitive sites.  At the base of the ear, gently rub your knuckles in true noogie fashion.  (To make a noogie form a half fist with your knuckles sticking out.)
    97 Ways to Make a Dog Smile, by Jenny Langbehn

    Friday, June 18, 2010

    Dangerous Foods That Dogs Should Never Eat: Macadamia Nuts

    Dogs should not eat nuts or foods containing nuts because nuts can be fatal. As few as 6 raw or roasted macadamia nuts can make a dog ill. Symptoms of poisoning include muscle tremors, weakness or paralysis of the hindquarters, vomiting, elevated body temperature, and rapid heart rate. Eating chocolate with the nuts will make symptoms worse, leading to possible kidney failure and death.

    Web MD

    For dogs, milk and other dairy products cause digestion problems.

    On a hot day, it may be tempting to share your ice cream cone with your dog. But if your dog could, it would thank you for not doing so. Milk and milk-based products can cause diarrhea and other digestive upset as well as set up food allergies (which often manifest as itchiness).

    Dangerous Foods for Dogs: avocado

    Who can resist those big brown eyes and cute doggie grin? Can a little reward from the table really hurt your dog? Well, that depends on what it is and what's in it. A chip with guacamole can cause your dog some real problems. In fact, there's a lot of people food your dog should never eat. And, it's not just because of weight. Some foods are downright dangerous for dogs - and some of these common foods may surprise you.

    Foods your dog should never eat: Onions

    Onion in all forms - powdered, raw, cooked, or dehydrated - can destroy a dog's red blood cells, leading to anemia. That can happen even with the onion powder found in some baby food. An occasional small dose is probably OK. But just eating a large quantity once or eating smaller amounts regularly can cause onion poisoning. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, little interest in food, dullness, and breathlessness.
    Web MD

    Thursday, June 17, 2010

    Quite a few bunnies are available at the Pasadena Humane Society now.

    Most of the bunny cages are occupied now. A couple of very sweet ones have been there since April, like the white bunny with a black circle around her eye seems to love people.  The cages are clean and all of the rabbits have a toy or two, and a towel and some have a little hut for snuggling under.  But they would like a forever home for a relationship and more space to stretch out and HOP.
    Some bunnies available at the Pasadena Humane Society

    Tuesday, June 15, 2010

    The bunny I adopted has long nails, and I need to trim them.  I expect he'll try to bite me; so I am procrastinating.  This video came across my site:  a technition demonstrates how to trim bunnies' nails.  I hope it is helpful!
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2CdhIsp7uM

    Equine stress control therapy STEPS CAN BE LEARNED

    This article gave me ideas which will enable me to better handle a stressful situation with a horse.  I hope it inspires you.  Nancy

    First and foremost, the human needs to be centered and calm. Your self-control and calm breathing can do wonders to help the horse. He will take his cue from the environment and your behavior is part of that. If a vet is on-site, all the better. Every effort needs to be made to keep the horse comfortable. Horses who have been sedated are NOT candidates for ESCT as tranquilizers of any type will interfere with the ESCT process.
    Minimum requirements for the process to work are that the horse is able to stand and be handled with a halter and lead rope. It is best to work with an assistant in an emergency situation if at all possible. Moving the horse to a quiet place away from the fracas is also recommended, as working in a whirlwind situation is counter-productive.
    Note that there is a definite protocol involved in healing a horse with ESCT. [The complete protocol is described in the Book of Horse Healing Secrets and in the ESCT and Pulser videos and DVDs available through www.harmonyhorseworks.com] It is likely that your state’s animal control network gives clinics in animal disaster relief. Many vets are trained in animal disaster management techniques. Adding ESCT to help horses in trauma situations is very effective. This is another welcome tool to help animals in need during tough situations. We recommend becoming completely familiar with the protocol and using it on many horses before heading out into a trauma situation.
    Barbara Wright operates Harmony HorseWorks, Horse Sanctuary and Rescue in Conifer, CO. Contact her at (303) 816-0766, barbara@harmonyhorseworks.comThis e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it , harmonyhorsewrks@aol.comThis e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or visit www.harmonyhorseworks.com

    Reprogramming a stressful situation for a horse: REPLACE THE TRAUMATIC MEMORY for the horse

    According to Barbara Wright: 
    Equine Stress Control Therapy (ESCT) deals directly with the horse's brain through the optic nerve and skeletal structure, sending interrupt signals to it while it re-lives and then re-thinks its traumatic experience in a controlled setting. As a result, reprocessing of the harmful memory happens quickly and the horse is liberated of its fear.
    Horses can return to their original fear within the situation and environment created by the ESCT therapist to re-establish as close a situation to the original as possible, and then discharge the energy associated with that fear. What is left in the horse's realm of experience is a new baseline of comfort stemming from having overcome the fear and having survived it.
    The new experience creates a new memory with a new positive energetic charge and the old memory is removed.
    Horses want to be healthy and whole. Being a healthy member of the herd is a biological imperative so the push to healing is great. A partnership with a human is also considered a herd bond, and the same push to healing and well-being in the horse applies in its relations with humans.
    Equine stress management

    YouTube - Simon's Cat 'Fly Guy'

    This is a great cat cartoon...
    YouTube - Simon's Cat 'Fly Guy'

    Monday, June 14, 2010

    Creative solution for spooky horses

    My Fantasy is a sweetheart, and wants to please her people, so she would never intentionally cause a rider to fall.  She however, is easily spooked.  That said, when I came across the following article in holistichorse.com, I was fascinated.  The writer, Barbara Wright applied the principles of body tapping and eye movement to treat traumatized horses.  She concluded that the fear cycle in horses is similar to what we humans experience.

    Body Tapping and Eye Movement

    Traumatized horses show remarkable results when treated with unique stress control therapy.

    When I received human stress control therapy and felt the incredibly efficient and fast transformation of my fears into simple events in my past, I was compelled to try eye movement therapy and bilateral body tapping therapy on Victoor, the spookiest horse I had ever met (even after many sessions of retraining with traditional methods, Victoor, an Arabian gelding, startled and spooked constantly).
    Victoor responded so well to my experimental approach that I read and studied everything I could about all the available eye movement and body tapping therapy techniques, then transformed the human protocols for the horse’s vision and physical form. That this protocol had never been tried on horses before (or any other mammal, for that matter) was surprising to me. I developed Equine Stress Control Therapy (ESCT) in 2002.
    ESCT is based on human therapies that are commonly used in triage situations by therapists arriving on the scene of accidents and catastrophes. That it works on recently traumatized horses, as well as those suffering from abuse, injury or memory trauma for some time, underscores the fact that the fear cycle in humans and horses is very similar.

    Thursday, June 10, 2010

    Does Dog Breed Matter?

    Most breeds of dogs consist of relatively small populations, and conformation competitions-- dog shows -- reward a very narrow range of looks. For these reasons, pedigreed dogs are more or less inbred. Genetic diversity is limited. That, in turn, means most modern breeds are troubled by at least a few inherited disorders. Many breeds routinely suffer from serious health conditions that shorten their lives.

    The Dog Trainer : How to Find a Good Dog Breeder :: Quick and Dirty Tips ™

    The Dog Trainer : How to Find a Good Dog Breeder :: Quick and Dirty Tips ™

    Wednesday, June 9, 2010

    Why You Don’t Want to Buy Organic Eggs at the Grocery

    This post on Mercola.com caught my eye and I think you will appreciate the information:
    Why You Don't Want to Buy Organic Eggs at the
    Grocery Store
    Posted By Dr. Mercola | June 08 2010 | 156,845 views
    Eggs are one of the most beneficial foods you can
    eat, and it's a shame they've been vilified for so
    long in the United States. In the U. S., roughly 280
    million birds give us about 75 billion eggs per year,
    which is about 10 percent of the world supply.
    But not all eggs are created equal.
    Eggs from truly organic, free-range chickens are
    FAR less likely to contain dangerous bacteria such
    as salmonella, and their nutrient content is also
    much higher than commercially raised eggs.
    The dramatically superior nutrient levels are most likely the result of the differences in diet
    between free ranging, pastured hens and commercially farmed hens.
    If you are eating organically, then you have learned how important the diet and care of an animal
    is to the quality of its meat, and in this case, their eggs. But have you ever thought about what
    happens to these eggs AFTER they are collected?
    You would think that organic eggs would be your best choice when picking them up at the grocery
    store. However, most states have laws that make them illegal unless all the eggs that are sold
    commercially are processed in a way that could damage them.
    Some states require that all eggs receive a chlorine bath and mineral oil coating before they are
    nestled into their cartons.
    There are vast differences in how eggs are processed and handled, even under the "certified
    organic" label.
    As it turns out, what happens outside the shell is as important as what happens inside the shell,
    and that is the focus of this report.
    Your Egg's Journey from Hen to Market
    Ideally, eggs should be processed the day after they are laid. The USDA requires processing
    within 30 days of lay. High quality eggs are processed within seven days of lay.
    Egg processing involves the following six steps:
    1. Egg collecting
    2. Cooling
    3. Cleaning/Disinfecting
    Candling (a measure for assessing the interior quality of the eggs whereby eggs are held up
    in front of a high-intensity light and visually examined; among other problems, cracks can be
    identified that necessitate disposal of the egg)
    4.
    5. Grading
    6. Packing/Labeling
    It is the cleaning process that you as a consumer should be aware of, because in this step, chemicals and contaminants may be
    introduced that compromise your eggs' quality.
    Why Eggshells are Like Your Skin
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    Did you know that, like your skin, eggshells are actually a porous membrane rather than an impermeable barrier?
    An eggshell contains approximately 7,500 pores or openings. The outer surface is covered with a waxy cuticle (called the bloom
    when on a chicken egg), sealing the egg and helping prevent bacteria from entering.
    Gases are transferred and moisture is lost through these pores.
    When moisture is lost, carbon dioxide is also lost, speeding up the breakdown of the egg.[i] Loss of carbon dioxide causes the egg's
    pH to increase, which results in thinning of the albumen.
    Why is this important?
    Because commercial processing regularly destroys this protective cuticle.
    As it turns out, it is standard industry practice to wash chicken eggs. Depending on the method of washing, the cuticle can be easily
    damaged, which leaves your eggs vulnerable to contamination and faster spoilage. The egg industry knows this, so to replace what
    Mother Nature put there for good reason, they must coat the egg with something—often mineral oil. It's akin to adding preservatives
    to processed foods.
    Not only is mineral oil a non-natural agent, but it's a petroleum product that was never intended for you to eat.
    Some egg producers use vegetable oil as a more natural alternative.
    If you are a culinary talent, you might be surprised to hear that using eggs whose shells were oiled will prevent those "stiff peaks"
    from happening, because some percentage of the oil seeps into the egg white.
    Not all eggs undergo oiling, but many larger producers do, particularly if they are preparing their eggs for long-distance shipment
    and/or storage.
    According to the "incredible edible egg[ii]" website, about 10 percent of all eggs are oiled. I could find no statistic about what
    percentage of eggs are cleaned in a way that their cuticle has been wiped out, but I suspect it is much higher than 10 percent.
    Like your skin, what's put ON your egg goes INTO your egg. Meaning, whatever the eggshell comes into contact with can cross
    over this semi-permeable membrane and end up in your scrambled eggs, from chlorine to mineral oil to dish soap -- to salmonella.
    Your Organic Eggs May Be Chlorinated or Rinsed in Lye
    According to A Guide to On-Farm Processing for Organic Producers: Table Eggs[iii], detergents and other chemicals used for "wet
    cleaning" eggs must either be non-synthetic or among the allowed synthetics on the National List of allowed non-agricultural
    substances (205.603 of the National Organic Standard).
    These synthetics include:
    Chlorine (sodium hypochlorate)
    Potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide (lye)
    Sodium carbonate
    Ozone
    Hydrogen peroxide
    Peracetic acid (peroxyacetic acid) -- a mixture of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide
    These agents serve mostly as sanitizers, rather than washing agents.
    If chlorine is used at levels over 4 ppm, it must be followed with a clean water rinse at no more than 4 ppm residual levels. Chlorine
    itself is relatively benign and breaks down to chloride in your body -- which is not much different from the chloride ion in table salt.
    However, chlorine can interact with organic materials to form highly toxic compounds called DBPs (Disinfection Byproducts), which
    can be carcinogenic and mutagenic. And eggs are an "organic material," which bears the question of what chemical interactions are
    occurring in a chlorinated egg that have yet to be discovered?
    Instead of harsh chemicals, the guide cited above recommends cleaning eggs with plain vinegar (mixed with 3 parts water) because
    it is non-synthetic and quite effective at removing both bacteria and stains on the eggshells (which some people find objectionable).
    Some farmers report rinsing eggs very quickly in water, just to dislodge any debris, and believe this is adequate. Others use a dry
    brushing process -- no liquids at all -- just a brush, sandpaper, or a loofah sponge.
    This dry brushing technique is highly recommended for small producers.
    If eggs are rinsed in water, it is very important that the wash water be about 20 degrees warmer than the eggs, and at least 90
    degrees F, but not more than 40 degrees above the eggs' temperature because of the risk of thermal cracking. This proper
    More Health Should Pregnant
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    temperature gradient encourages the contents of the egg to swell and push the dirt out of the pores.
    If the water is too cold relative to the egg, the egg can literally "suck in" the washing solution -- along with the bacteria in it. Water
    exposure should be as brief as possible to minimize the potential for contamination, and the eggs dried immediately.
    Mineral oil is not listed in the National List of allowed substances.
    I think it is unlikely that an organic farmer would choose to use mineral oil, but the regulations are so variable from state to state,
    and the national guidelines so nebulous, that there is lots of wiggle room.
    Scrambled Federal and State Regulations on Eggs
    There are different federal and state regulations for egg farmers, depending on what the eggs are intended for.
    Eggs that are going to be used in egg products (i.e., those that will be cracked and emptied) are subjected to one set of regulations,
    and eggs that are sold as "table eggs" or "shell eggs," which are sold fresh and whole "in the shell," are subject to another set of
    regulations.
    And then there are state regulations, in addition to federal regulations.
    In 1970, Congress passed the Egg Products Inspection Act (administered by the USDA) to ensure that eggs and egg products are
    safe for consumption. This act imposes specific inspection requirements for both shell eggs and egg products for anyone who sells
    eggs to retailers (grocery stores, restaurants, hotels, etc.).
    In 1972, on-site inspections of all shell egg producers became required quarterly. However, any producer with a flock of less than
    3,000 birds is EXEMPT from this act.
    Every state has its own specific egg laws, which makes it more complicated to figure out what process your eggs have gone
    through. Although the USDA does not allow immersion washing (allowing eggs to soak in water), most small producers are not
    subject to those restrictions.
    And most state egg laws do not specify washing methods.
    For an extensive list of egg regulatory agencies, you can refer to this USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service "fact sheet."
    Egg Cleaners and Sanitizers
    According to the USDA's publication "Guidance for Shell Egg Cleaners and Sanitizers"[iv]:
    "Compounds used to wash and destain shell eggs are potential food additives. Therefore, they are regulated by the Food and
    Drug Administration (FDA). Unfortunately, FDA does not have any published regulations dealing with shell egg cleaning and
    destaining compounds."
    Leaves it wide open, doesn't it?
    The publication goes on to give some guidelines for egg cleaning chemicals, basically instructing farmers to use substances that
    are "GRAS" (Generally Recognized as Safe), but these substances are not limited in any way.
    Since organic egg producers are interested in producing high-quality eggs, many of them—especially small, local farming
    operations—have implemented gentle washing methods that don't compromise the cuticle.
    Interestingly, in Europe, Grade A eggs are not washed. According to the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service[v]:
    "This practice is a result of research done in the early 1900s that indicated washing eggs before storage resulted in
    unpredictable and sometimes deleterious results. However, the length of wash time, cleanliness and temperature of the water
    and the proper use of sanitizers varied widely in these studies.
    Older egg production books do not recommend washing eggs at all. In the past, it was important to protect the cuticle because
    refrigeration was not always possible."
    To Refrigerate or Not to Refrigerate
    Despite what you've heard, eggs that are fresh and have an intact cuticle do not need to be refrigerated, as long as you are going to
    consume them within a relatively short period of time.
    In other countries, including most of Europe, eggs are frequently not refrigerated.
    In the U.S., refrigeration of eggs became the cultural norm when mass production caused eggs to travel long distances and sit in
    storage for weeks to months before arriving at your superstore. The general lack of cleanliness of factory farms has increased the
    likelihood that your eggs have come into contact with pathogens, amplifying the need for disinfection and refrigeration.
    Not only that, but as a culture, we are rather "germ phobic" here in the U.S., compared to other countries.
    So, IF your eggs are very fresh, and IF their cuticle is intact, you do not have to refrigerate them. According to Hilary Thesmar,
    director of the American Egg Board's Egg Safety Center[vi]:
    More Health Should Pregnant
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    "The bottom line is shelf life. The shelf life for an unrefrigerated egg is 7 to 10 days and for refrigerated, it's 30 to 45 days. A
    good rule of thumb is one day at room temperature is equal to one week under refrigeration."
    Eggs purchased from grocery stores are typically already three weeks old, or older. USDA certified eggs must have a pack date on
    the carton, and a sell-by date. Realize that the eggs were often laid many days prior to the pack date.
    For cracking the egg carton dates code, click here.
    For more information about how to maximize the health benefits of your eggs, please review my earlier article.
    Hello, Big Farma
    About 95 percent of the eggs produced in the U.S. come from gigantic egg factories housing millions of hens under one roof.
    According to the American Egg Board:
    Prior to World War II, most egg production came from farm flocks of less than 400 hens. By the early 1960s, technological
    innovations caused a shift from small farms to huge commercial operations.
    There are currently about 245 egg companies with flocks of 75,000 or more.
    Of these 245 companies, 60 have at least one million laying hens, and 12 have more than 5 million hens.
    You can only imagine how difficult -- if not impossible -- it is to keep 5 million hens healthy and happy, under one roof... a clucking
    nightmare!
    This is just another reason you should buy from your local organic farmer.
    According to Robert Plamondon's Poultry Pages[vii], the most common sources of dirty eggs are the following:
    Hens who sleep and poop in the nest boxes
    Hens who enter the nests with muddy feet
    Broken eggs (from insufficient nest litter, or too many hens jammed together)
    Traffic (too many hens coming and going in a small area)
    It is much easier to produce clean eggs than to clean dirty eggs.
    Preventing dirty eggs is best done through better management of the hens and their nesting spaces, which greatly reduces the
    need for egg cleaning in the first place.
    As the guide states, "Disease prevention in organic systems starts with clean birds." Your egg farmer should be paying attention to
    proper nutrition, clean water, adequate housing space, and good ventilation to reduce stress on the hens and support their
    immunity.
    Crowded conditions in factory farms are a major reason why so many commercial eggs have to be bathed in caustic chemicals in
    order to be "safe" for you to eat!
    How Can You Guarantee Clean, Fresh Eggs?
    So, how can you tell if your eggs have been washed in chlorine or lye, or in some other chemical, or coated with mineral oil?
    You certainly can't tell by looking at them.
    The only way to know if your eggs have been washed or oiled (and using what agents) is to ask the producer -- and the
    only way to do that is to buy from small local farmers you have direct contact with.
    It is important to know where your food comes from. And if you don't ask, they won't tell you.
    The key here is to buy your eggs locally. About the only time I purchase eggs from the store is when I am travelling or for some
    reason I miss my local egg pickup.
    But finding high quality organic eggs locally is FAR easier than finding raw milk as virtually every rural area has individuals with
    chickens. If you live in an urban area visiting the local health food stores is typically the quickest route to finding the high quality
    local egg sources.
    Farmers markets are another great way to meet the people who produce your food. With face-to-face contact, you can get your
    questions answered and know exactly what you're buying. Better yet, visit the farm -- ask for a tour. If they have nothing to hide,
    they should be eager to show you their operation.
    Remember, clean and happy chickens lead to healthy eggs.
    More Health Should Pregnant
    Vaccines?
    READ MORE »
    [i] "Fresh Farm Eggs—Marketing and Regulations" (Agricultural and Natural Resources Fact Sheet #511), Washington State University Cooperative Extension for King County
    [ii] American Egg Board (AEB)
    [iii] Fanatico, A and Keupper G. "A Guide to on-farm processing for organic producers: Table eggs"
    [iv] "Guidance for shell egg cleaners and sanitizers," USDA Regulations and Policies, Food Safety and Inspection Service
    [v] Fanatico A. and Conner B. (2009) "Small-scale egg handling," National Sustainable Agricultural Service (ATTRA Publication #IP348/346)
    [vi] "Storing eggs differs in Europe, America" (May 6, 2009)
    [vii] Plamondon R. "Egg quality/egg washing"
    Like 2,299 people like this. Be the first of your friends.
    Related Links:
    What Are the Best Type of Eggs to Get?
    Raw Eggs for Your Health -- Major Update
    Eggs are the Better Breakfast Choice

    Monday, June 7, 2010

    Sweet bunny needs a name!

    This little bunny is sooo sweet!  Please take a look at the name ideas so far and add your suggestion!

    Sunday, June 6, 2010

    I adopted a French-Angora lionhead bunny!

    What fun!  I brought bunny home and set him up with a little grass dome and a iitter pan.  He slept in the dome and pooped in the pan!  He loves to be held.  He enjoyed the toilet paper tube stuffed with hay, but does not seem interested in the pellet food.  Of course he loves the apple slice as well as the carrot.

    Friday, June 4, 2010

    YouTube - Bad Day for Bunny Rattlesnake eats bunny

    YouTube - Bad Day for Bunny

    What to do in the event of a snake bite

    What to do in the event of a snake bite
    Though uncommon, rattlesnake bites do occur, so have a plan in place for responding to any situation. Carry a portable phone, hike with a companion who can assist in an emergency, and make sure that family or friends know where you are going and when you will be checking in.
    The first thing to do if bitten is to stay calm. Generally, the most serious effect of a rattlesnake bite to an adult is local tissue damage which needs to be treated. Children, because they are smaller, are in more danger if they are bitten.
    Get to a doctor as soon as possible, but stay calm. Frenetic, high-speed driving places the victim at greater risk of an accident and increased heart rate. If the doctor is more than 30 minutes away, keep the bite below the heart, and then try to get to the doctor as quickly as possible.
    The California Poison Control Center advises:
    • Stay calm
    • Wash the bite area gently with soap and water
    • Remove watches, rings, etc, which may constrict swelling
    • Immobilize the affected area
    • Transport safely to the nearest medical facility
    For more first aid information please visit  California Poison Control.

    rattlesnake proof fence

    The best protection against rattlesnakes in the yard is a “rattlesnake proof” fence. It can be expensive and requires maintenance, however. The fence should either be solid or with mesh no larger than one-quarter inch. It should be at least three feet high with the bottom buried a few inches in the ground. Slanting your snake fence outward about a 30-degree angle will help. Vegetation should be kept away from the fence since the snake could crawl to the top of an adjacent tree or shrub. Discourage snakes by removing piles of boards or rocks around the home. Use caution when removing those piles - there may already be a snake there. Encouraging and protecting natural competitors like gopher snakes, kingsnakes and racers will reduce the rattlesnake population in the immediate area. And, kingsnakes actually kill and eat rattlesnakes.

    How to fence your yard for rabbits


    How To

    How to Fence Your Yard for Rabbits

    ds_6528be9a-b51a-4873-8fe0-c2322b39f669 Contributor
    By Laurie Rappeport, eHow Contributing Writer
    (1 Ratings)
    Rabbits make wonderful pets. They're gentle and friendly, enjoy being stroked and don't make much noise. Rabbits can also do a lot of damage. It's important to securely fence in the area of the yard where they are living, both for their own security and the welfare of the plants and household items that rabbits love to munch and chew. Properly fencing a yard for rabbits takes a bit of thought and planning. In the long run it will keep the rabbits safe and allow everything outside the fence to stay safe from the rabbits' chewing.
    Difficulty: Moderately Challenging
    Instructions

    Things You'll Need:

    • Fencing material
    • Instructions for fencing material
    • Stakes
    • Gate
    • Secure latch

      Fencing a Rabbit Yard

    1. Step 1
      Decide which part of your yard will be the rabbits' area. Theoretically, the rabbits could have the run of the yard, if it is fenced, but they will be safer if they have only a part of the yard. They will be easier to keep track of and will not be able to escape as easily if the gate to the main yard is inadvertently left open. In addition, if the rabbits are in their own enclosure-within-an-enclosure they will be safer from other animals.
    2. Step 2
      Buy fencing material. Wire-mesh fencing or a chain-link fence work well because rabbits cannot chew these materials. Fencing material may be purchased at a home-and-garden center, a plant nursery or through a fencing company.

      Measure the area to be fenced and purchase the appropriate amount of fencing. A chicken-wire mesh fence will work, though a chain-link fence will be sturdier. A gate should be purchased at the same time, along with a secure latch.

      Follow the instructions for the type of fencing material to be used. All fences will need stakes to anchor the sides and the gate.

      Attach chicken wire over the top of the cage to keep feral cats and other animals and birds of prey from getting into the enclosure.
    3. Step 3
      Erect a fence that is at least 2 feet high to keep the rabbits from jumping out or other animals from getting in.

      Add an additional 6-12 inches of fencing height to embed the fence in the ground. Rabbits burrow and dig and the fence must be embedded into the ground to prevent the rabbits from tunneling out. This will also prevent other animals who might attack the rabbits from crawling under the fence to get in.
    4. Step 4
      Attach the gate to the stakes at the fence opening. Make sure there is a secure latch on the gate.

    How to Allow Rabbits Outside Time | eHow.com

    How to Allow Rabbits Outside Time | eHow.com

    Talk:Rattlesnake - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    Talk:Rattlesnake - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    SUCKING THE VENOM OUT OF A BITE IS A MYTH! SURE ITS POSSIBLE TO GET SOME OF IT, BUT THERE'S NO GUARANTEE YOU WILL GET ALL OF IT! THIS IS BY NO MEANS A CURE! IF YOU GET BIT, WRAP THE ENTIRE LIMB TIGHTLY WITH A PRESSURE BANDAGE IF YOU HAVE ONE, SO THAT BLOOD FLOW WILL BE RESTRICTED, SLOWING THE SPREAD OF VENOM. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A PRESSURE BANDAGE THEN IMPROVISE. THIS IS ONLY A TEMPORARY SOLUTION HOWEVER, AND IN THE CASE OF ANY VENOMOUS SNAKEBITE, SEEK PROFESSIONAL MEDICAL ATTENTION!!!!!!!

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