Ebony walks in view of the snowy San Bernadino Mountains

Ebony LOVES her walks wherever she goes. 

Why Dogs Pull on the Leash

While our greyhounds have good leash manners, we also sometimes walk a pair of dogs who pull on the leash, making a walk unpleasant; so  I want to share this tip from a the Daily Dog Tip.

TODAY´S TIP: BEHAVIOR & TRAINING

December 1, 2010

Why Dogs Pull on the Leash

by Tammy Reinarz, Owner, Tammy's Dog Training Service


     Dogs pull for various reasons. But the simplest explanation is this: we keep following them, allowing them to lead us around by the leash. If we keep following, the immediate connection is this - them pulling on the leash equals person moving. Pulling on the leash is irrelevant to the size of the leash, so you get no brownie points for a dog that is pulling by your side. A dog will use the pressure on the collar to signal when you should move. You are, in essence, training them to pull you around.

One of the steps for getting a dog to stop is to teach him that pulling you will immediately make you stop walking. Patience is your friend in this. The walk will continue when there is no pressure felt on the leash or collar.

Tammy Reinarz, CPDT-KA and a Professional Member of the APDT, has been training dogs of all breeds within the Central PA area since 2005.
Add a comment | See all Behavior & Training tips

WAG for greyhound adoption; what a handsome Santa!

Isn't this a handsome Santa?

El Gato the "Christmas" Horse

Greyhound opening Christmas Milkbones

Who needs hands? When there is a yummy reward, the job will get done!

Katherine Ginzton teaches riders of all ages.

Katherine Ginzton teaches riders of all ages.
We gathered to celebrate the Christmas holiday 2010 at the home of the Toms'.

Rose Bowl Riders Christmas party 2010

 

Thanks to the Toms' we enjoyed a warm, friendly Christmas party.  

Katherine Ginzton has a great group of girls she teaches at Rose Bowl Riders.

How to read your dog

How to read your dog

Ivory was bored

We returned to find a mess in the family room.  I guess Ivory was bored!  Is this typical greyhound behavior?

Hottest horseman of 2010

Hottest horseman of 2010
Eligible bachelor; single horseman.

I just Christmas shopped at Equestrian Collections!

Save time and money by shopping at Equestrian Collections!

Animals of YouTube sing "Deck the Halls"

Oh so cute himalayan kitten.

Does it get any cuter than this?

Watch Out for Holiday Dog Hazards

Ten household holiday items that could potentially harm dogs and other pets.

Decorations may set the perfect mood this holiday season, but ornaments, tinsel, and other items can be a recipe for disaster for your furry family members. Veterinarians recommend keeping animals separated from dangerous items in your home, such as the following:
People food and table scraps. “The biggest problems we see over the holidays are emergencies related to table scraps,” explains Dr. David Bessler, emergency medicine clinician at NYC Veterinary Specialists. “Whenever we gather for large family meals, we love to include our pets as part of the family. Great idea, but do it right! Dogs should not be fed fatty ‘people-food’ – not because it will make them fat, but because it can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and pancreatitis, an often fatal disease which claims the lives of thousands of dogs every year.”
Bones. “There is no safe bone,” Bessler says. “Chicken bones, cooked or uncooked, beef bones, and fish bones have all killed dogs. Bones get stuck in the esophagus, stomach, and intestines, and can poke through the walls of those organs, meaning almost certain death. To those people who say, ‘but dogs eat bones in the wild!’ I say, ‘Bones kill dogs in the wild, too.’ A bone that fits down the throat of a wolf does not fit down the throat of a Yorkie.”
Cords and tree lights. Electrocution is prevalent in young animals, such as puppies or kittens, who are more apt to explore objects by mouthing or chewing objects such as electrical cords and tree lights.
Real Christmas trees. “A lot of pet owners are choosing to go with artificial trees,” says Dr. Sonja Olson, head of emergency services at Florida Veterinary Specialists. “It’s not that real Christmas trees are toxic to pets, but tree needles can be irritating and extremely harmful to pets’ digestive tracts when swallowed. Pets also like to drink tree water, which may sort of taste like tea, but it can also be harmful to their digestive tracts, so people have to be sure to cover up the tree water and keep pets from drinking it.”
Ornaments. “The glass tree ornaments look like regular toys to dogs, so they’ll bite into them and get a mouth full of glass,” Bessler says.
Chocolate. “It’s always best to keep a pet away from chocolate,” Bessler says. While it takes a large amount of milk chocolate to make an animal sick, dark chocolate is 10 times more poisonous than milk chocolate.
Potpourri. “Potpourri and especially the oil-based potpourri people often burn over a flame can be very harmful to pets,” says Olson. “Cats will lick it off of their paws and ingest it. This type of oil is a very significant irritant when ingested. It’s important to make sure our pets stay far away from any kind of potpourri.”
Plants. While many holiday plants are not fatally poisonous to animals, poinsettias and holly can cause mouth irritation, drooling, vomiting and diarrhea.
Bread dough and yeast. Dogs may sneak some bread dough meant for holiday treats. In the process of rising, the dough expands in the stomach and the yeast produces ethanol. This can lead to severe problems including alcohol poisoning, stomach distension, and potential bloat.
Tinsel. “Cats will play with tinsel and eat it,” Bessler says. The problem is it can become impacted in their intestines. “Sometimes the strings can cause their intestines to get bunched up into a knot. And, if the problem continues, it can actually saw through the intestines.”
Keeping your dog’s safety and well-being in mind can help ensure that all members of your family have a happy holiday!
Posted 2007 at dogchannel.com

Myth #7: I canʼt tell that my animal is feeling or moving any better, so the massage must not have worked.

There are many reasons that the benefits of

a massage may not be obvious right away.

For example, there may be some

inflammation from an injury or arthritis

causing pain that is still affecting how your

animal moves, even if many benefits were

accomplished. Most pain or movement

issues that we or our animals may want

help with have happened over a number of

days, months and often years. It would be a

lot to expect one or two massages to “fix”

it, although this can happen sometimes.

More often, you should expect noticeable

progress to take two or three massages, or

more, as well as other forms of treatment

such as chiropratic, acupuncture, or medication. Other treatments are often

complementary to massage, and vice versa.

Taking action towards preventing a recurrence of the problem is also

important. This could mean any number of things, such as changing

something about an activity that is causing repetitive stress injuries,

changing nutrition and/or weight, or providing regular maintenance

bodywork to alleviate the stresses that inevitably do accumulate.

Copyright © 2010 All About Animal Massage

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Of course, if you're not noticing positive effects after two or three sessions,

massage, or that particular style of massage at least, may not be the (only)

solution for your animal's current needs. Meanwhile, you should certainly be

consulting with you veterinarian if there are acute problems such as

lameness, injury or illness.

Myth #8: If “location x” is where it hurts, then thatʼs where you must focus the massage to help.

There are two reasons that massage

attention in other areas of the body may

be more helpful than where it hurts at the

moment.

1. If there is current inflammation and

acute pain in an area, many massage

techniques would simply irritate the area

further and be counterproductive, or even

outright harmful. (However, some

techniques, such as lymphatic drainage

massage or acupressure, may still be

quite helpful!)

2. Very often the location of pain is not the location of the restriction that is

causing the pain. That is, a tightness or an adhesion, some form of a

restriction somewhere else in the body, may be (and likely is) pulling on

"neighbors", resulting in pain where sensitive structures are being stressed

by the pull. Over time, the patterns of tension, along with the body's efforts

to compensate, can create very elaborate and unique patterns of restriction.

This means that any pain could potentially have it's root cause virtually

anywhere in the body, and part of the process of receiving bodywork over

time is unraveling these layers that eventually led to the symptoms. (Why

don't the symptoms just appear right away? Because we and our animals, are

so good at compensating and adapting. Much more on this in Chapter 4:

Adaptation vs. Healing in The Dog Lover's Guide to Massage and The Horse

Lover's Guide to Massage.)

Myth #6: Sure, go ahead and try massage. It couldnʼt hurt....

While massage is not likely to do harm, it most certainly can. Generally,

people who believe that it can't are also not aware of how powerfully it can

affect the body for good. And anything with that kind of power can

potentially cause harm, too, if not used appropriately. This is just like

medicine, which can either heal or poison, depending on how it's used and

also on the condition of the person who takes it.

Copyright © 2010 All About Animal Massage

6

So the two factors for whether

massage will do good or harm

are,

A. how massage is applied,

and

B. the condition of the animal

(or person) receiving it.

Here are a few easy tips to help

you avoid causing harm for either of these reasons.

1. The changes caused by massage for the circulatory and neurological

systems in particular, can be harmful if your animal has a fever or is in

a state of shock. Do not massage in these situations.

2. Applying massage strokes or stretches too quickly can lead to damage

of tissue before your animal has a chance to communicate with you

about something that hurts.

3. Listen to your animal's feedback. If they don't like something, stop.

This will help you avoid most problems, but there are some important

exceptions to keep in mind. If your animal is too ill, emotionally shut

down and/or trained to politely endure whatever you do to it, you may

not get accurate feedback. On the other hand, many animals will

protest or try to avoid things that are not necessarily causing harm, but

may be uncomfortable or just plain unfamiliar to them, or the touch

may trigger an unpleasant memory. In these cases, if you stop what

they don't seem to like, you will safely avoid causing harm, a very

good thing, although you may also miss an opportunity to help with

some more healing for a problem area. Persisting when your animal is

unsure is a very fine line to walk, and training and experience

becomes much more important. When in doubt, an appointment with a

professional may be just thing to help you get more accomplished

with massage while avoiding doing any harm.

Because massage does have very real physiological effects on the body,

professional massage therapists receive training about contraindications

(when not to massage) and precautions (when and how to adapt the massage

for certain conditions). You can read more about this in Animal Massage: A

Consumer Guide, as well as in Chapter 6: Guidelines for Effectiveness and

Copyright © 2010 All About Animal Massage

Safety, in The Dog Lover's Guide to Massage and The Horse Lover's Guide

to Massage. You can also usually find information on contraindications and

precautions in any book on massage for animals or for people, though some

situations may be specific to one or the other.

While it's important to be aware that massage can indeed cause harm,

remember that as long as your animal is in good health and you're listening

to their feedback, you have little to worry about. If your animal is not in

good health, just ask your vet about whether and how massage might still be

used to support their comfort and wellness. (But if your vet says, "Sure, go

ahead and try massage. It couldn't hurt."

The Amazon Rainforest offers a healthy alternative to harsh chemicals for flea and tick control.

Would you like to offer your pet a healthy defense against fleas?

An amazing dog/cat relationship....ENJOY!

Need inspiration? Enjoy the warm and fuzzy lovers.

Zenyatta Vs. The Best

Did you ever wonder how Zenyatta would do running with the best of the best of all time? Enjoy this simulation!

Do your dogs spin?

Ivory, if you can't run fast, you can run in place.

Myth #5: Massage is a luxury that may feel good, but doesnʼt have lasting benefits.

It's true that massage can serve very well as a luxurious indulgence for yourself or for your pet. I've been thankful for this great benefit a few times myself : ) It's also true though, that massage and other forms of bodywork

5

Copyright © 2010 All About Animal Massageoffer many health benefits that last well beyond the day of the massage. In fact, some benefits don't even become apparent till a day or two later, because the body needs time to respond and adapt to the releases that happened during the session.

For a list of some health benefits offered by massage, please visit http:// AllAboutAnimalMassage.com . You can also check out these links to many

research articles documenting massage benefits. Most of these studies have been done with human massage rather than for animals, though the first in the list you'll find is on back pain in horses. The other research information is still useful for animals, since our physiology, or how the body works, is virtually identical when it comes to how the body responds to massage. In my books, The Dog Lover's Guide to Massage and The Horse Lover's Guide to Massage, you'll find a chapter on "How Massage Works" that describes much of this physiology in everyday language. I include descriptions of how massage helps by freeing restrictions and adhesions in muscles, balancing the skeletal structure (through working with connective tissue), stimulating the immune system, affecting proprioception, influencing the nervous (neurological) system, and supporting the circulatory system. Some of these mechanisms are also more briefly described in my free e-book, Animal Massage: A Consumer Guide.

For many individuals, human and animal, massage and bodywork is no luxury at all, but a necessity that can keep them (more) sound, healthy and comfortable. For others it's less necessary, but no less beneficial. And in addition to the direct health benefits, regular massage can also result in earlier detection of potential health problems, catching them as they develop when conditions are easier to control or even reverse.

Hollywood Park • Details Finalized For Zenyatta Appreciation Day

I would love to attend this!
Anyone else interested?
Hollywood Park • Details Finalized For Zenyatta Appreciation Day: "- Sent using Google Toolbar"

All truth goes through 3 stages:

Remember the words of German philosopher Arthur Schopenhauer who, 200 years ago, said all truth goes through three stages:

• First it is ridiculed
• Then it is violently opposed
• Finally it is widely accepted as self evident

Myth #4: My animal isnʼt working hard right now, so thereʼs no point in a massage.

Myth #4: My animal isnʼt working hard right now, so thereʼs no point in a massage.

While it's true that hard work and athletic activity is a great reason to offer your pet or horse a massage, there are also many benefits for less active animals. In fact, in some cases it may be especially useful during these times. Regular and vigorous exercise offers all of us many important health benefits, but sometimes it doesn't seem to happen for stretches of time, for whatever reason. (I know I've been feeling the consequences of this lately, and my body is definitely feeling the difference!) These exercise benefits help not only our muscles and joints, but also our organs and immune system, not to mention our mental and emotional well-being.

4

Copyright © 2010 All About Animal MassageReasons for lack of activity might be due to:

• an injury, illness or surgery • advanced age • the weather or season • or the busy schedule of the

owner or trainer

Massage is one way to offer your animal some of the same health benefits during times that exercise is limited. If your animal is healthy and simply inactive, the massage may be quite similar to their usual massage. During times of recovery from injuries and illnesses, or for older animals, special techniques and modalities may be used instead of or in addition to more standard massage. For example, your massage therapist may have special training to work with scar tissue or areas of swelling. He or she may also be able to offer techniques such as acupressure or Reiki during times that regular massage may be contraindicated (not appropriate).

Whether you'd like to offer therapeutic touch for your animal, or enlist the support of a professional, or both, remember that some form of touch is almost always beneficial. The question is which techniques are going to be most helpful (and not cause harm) for your animal's unique needs. I encourage you to explore the answer to this question throughout your animal's life, whatever their level of activity. I'm sure you'll find it a rewarding and educational adventure!

Why use massage for animals?

All About Animal Massage

Just a Pigeon crossing the street

Myth #3: If my animal isnʼt yawning and falling asleep, the massage isnʼt working.

This myth is the flip side of the "no pain, no gain" misconception. It's true that relaxation is generally a positive sign that good things are happening. However, I'll give you three thoughts to consider before you decide to use this as a way to judge the effects of a massage.

1. Sometimes important healing processes can be temporarily uncomfortable: physically, mentally or emotionally. A relaxing "sleepy-time" massage may offer certain benefits, but also in some cases be a missed opportunity for addressing deeper issues.

3

Copyright © 2010 All About Animal Massage2. Your animal may be experiencing positive physical effects that might normally make him or her feel a little sleepy, but may be kept alert by something in the environment, or by their expectations of

something about to happen (like a meal or playtime).

3. One form of massage used commonly by athletes (human and animal) is to help prepare the body for physical exertion. This is known as "pre-event sports massage," which can not only help optimize performance, but also reduce the risk of injury. Putting the athlete to sleep would not, in most cases, help their performance!

So as you can see, it's important to consider the goal for each individual massage, and also to be observant of the environment and the animal's perspective. Yawns and deep relaxation are just two of many signs that a massage is "working."

Animal massage: 2 Myth #2: No pain, no gain.

This myth is probably especially common when people are thinking about massage for themselves, but some apply the same idea to therapy for their animals. (It's a myth either way, whatever the species.) The fact is, most massage benefits can and should be achieved without inflicting pain.

Does this mean all pain is bad? No. Some pain may, at times, be necessary to accomplish a worthwhile "release," or therapeutic shift. But this is more the exception than the rule, and the practitioner must be highly skilled and accurate to reduce risk of damage in the process. Yes, damage is possible with massage and bodywork. That's one reason those without advanced skills and experience should avoid moves that the animal (or human) responds to with a defensive pain reaction.

While many benefits can be accomplished with zero pain or discomfort, some therapeutic effects fall somewhere in between. You may already be familiar with the "hurts so good" sensation, where there's some discomfort, but at the same time the body is still wanting the work because it knows a positive process is happening. You may see the animal really "tune in" and focus. They may go through moments of agitation, but then return to the inward focus and eventually display a clear sign of release and relaxation. So although it's not always true, a better rule of thumb for massage would be... Pain? No gain!

Next the farrier cleans and cuts away the hoof under the old shoes.

 

The farrier works quickly to remove old hoof.

Today was new shoe day at Rose Bowl Riders

 

Taking the shoes off requires strength both while pulling and when the horse leans against the farrier.

Myth #1: Animals canʼt tell you where they have pain or tension since they canʼt talk.

Wrong! Animals are excellent communicators. They use facial expressions, postures, gestures, and even changes in their breathing to let us know how they're feeling. And unlike many humans, animals generally give constant and honest feedback as you massage them, without worrying about being polite. And when animals learn more about massage and bodywork by receiving it again and again, they get even better at communicating more accurately and more subtly.

More on politeness: Be aware that some animals trained to have excellent manners may at first be inhibited about communicating displeasure or pain during a massage. However, if you pay attention and respond to their subtle cues, they quickly learn that they can communicate with you and still be polite. Likewise, animals who overreact at first to something they don't like, and either threaten your safety or resist receiving massage, can

also learn to communicate more politely and productively, knowing that you will listen and adjust what you're doing to meet their needs.

Katie schooling a horse at Flintridge Show

Katie makes sure things will go well at a horse show by schooling a clients horse.

Flintridge Horse Show Autumn 2010 with RBR kids

Some shots from the stands of the Flintridge show.

Flintridge Horse Show clip

Healing Secrets for Rescued and Adopted Dogs

Natural Healing Secrets for Rescued and Adopted Dogs ("Rescue Dog Massage"

Litterbox training your kitten

Litterbox Training

Before you introduce your kitten to litterbox training, review this list of do's and don'ts.

The average kitten begins litterbox training between 4 and 6 weeks of age. Here are some tips to keep in mind as you begin the process.

1. Do keep your kitten's litterbox clean.

2. Do have more than one litterbox in your home.

3. Do pay attention to your kitten's litter preferences.

4. Do consider sandlike litters.

5. Do keep your kitten's litterbox in a secluded area.

6. Don't use perfumed litters.

7. Don't use clumping litter with kittens younger than 4 months old.

8. Don't keep the litterbox near food or water bowls.

9. Don't use ammonia-based cleaners on the litterbox.

10. Don't allow dogs, children or other cats to deny your kitten access to its litterbox.

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Zenyatta, the "horse of the year" retires!

The "horse of the year" Zenyatta, retires to Kentucky!

Pet Hotel Chain Offer First-Class Pampering - NY1.com

Pet Hotel Chain Offer First-Class Pampering - NY1.com

petsinpastel.com

I ran across this neat website, and want to share it with you. 

Pets in Pastel

"And God took a handful of southernly wind, blew His breath
over it and created the horse."
~ Bedouin Legend

The heart of a man

"We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals." ~ Immanual Kant

Can dogs get the flu?

The Canine Influenza Virus (CIV), also known as the "doggie flu," is considered to be highly contagious and most dogs that come into contact with it become infected. Don't let this cause alarm as most dogs recover fully in a relatively short period of time. The doggie flu is known only to be transmitted between dogs so neither you nor your pooch can infect each other. Pets that are in regular contact with other dogs will have the greatest chance of exposure. Typically, an infected dog will suffer from a runny nose, persistent cough and a fever. For most dogs, CIV will run its course in a week. Many vets will prescribe an antibiotic regimen to help prevent a secondary bacterial infection such as pneumonia. According to medical experts, dogs are not at risk for infection from swine flu.

From Fido Dog Treats

Pet Hotel Chain Offer First-Class Pampering - NY1.com

Pet Hotel Chain Offer First-Class Pampering - NY1.com

Fantasy got her winter clip!

A good, sharp clipper is essential.  Moving against the hair is key.  A smaller clipper is necessary for the face and other small areas.

 

There's a horse in that car!

Do you know the right way to hold a bunny?

Vet assistant demonstrates how to hold a bunny.

Look at what you can find at the Humane Society!

Zenyatta loses by a nose

Zenatta almost wins

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTl2fdMXfv8

World's smallest horse!

The world's smallest horse Thumbelina has her own website: http://www.worldssmallesthorse.comThe world's smallest horse/,
her own theme song, and a plush toy modeled after her.
Thumbelina, The World’s Smallest Horse
• Thumbelina is a dwarf miniature horse. • Thumbelina was born on May 1st, 2001 on Goose Creek Farms, a miniature horse farm
near St. Louis, MO.
• Goose Creek Farms maintains a herd of about 40-50 miniature horses and is owned by Paul and Kay Goessling.
• At birth, Thumbelina stood about 11 inches tall and weighed about 8.5 lbs.
• Today, Thumbelina is a chestnut mare that stands 17 1⁄2 inches tall and weighs 58 lbs.
• Thumbelina eats one cup of oats and a handful of hay in the breakfast and dinner.
• Thumbelina prefers to sleep in the dog house instead of her stall.
• Guinness World records certified Thumbelina as the “World’s Smallest Living Horse” on July 7th, 2006.
• Guinness has since certified Thumbelina as the smallest horse in history since they can find no record of anyone ever claiming to have a horse smaller than 17 1⁄2 inches tall.
• The Thumbelina Charitable Foundation was established on January 2nd, 2007. • The Thumbelina Charitable Foundation was created to channel the world’s affection for
Thumbelina toward worthy children’s charities and the missions for which they strive.
• The Thumbelina Children’s Tour was launched on May 1st in Louisville, KY during Derby Week.
• The goal of the Children’s Tour is for Thumbelina to visit sick and needy kids across the US and to raise $1M for children’s charities.
• The tour will run from May to November 2007.
Goose Creek Farms ~ P.O. Box 31416 ~ Saint Louis, MO 63131 314/606-5747 ~ worldssmallesthorse.com

Therapy cat and her 9-year-old owner bring joy to patients

9 year old brings joy to patients with her therapy cat

I love good news. This story inspires me to get started with a pet therapy program in my local area. I'll let you know how that goes. I haven't been the best with volunteering.

From the Standard Examiner; http://www.standard.net/topics/health/2010/10/30/therapy-cat-and-her-9-year-old-owner-bring-joy-patients

ROY -- There's nothing scary about Kaylin Davis' cat.
Knowing this about her animal, the 9-year-old girl has decided to make a big difference for some older people with the help of her feline friend.

Kaylin, a fourth-grader at Quest Academy Charter School, takes Bella, her 18-month-old blue point Siamese, around to the residents of Roy's Heritage Park Care Center.

"I like it because it makes people feel good when they are not with their pets and families," Kaylin said as she wheeled her 7-pound animal around on a cart designed especially so she won't tire from repeatedly lifting her pet.

While the visits obviously bring joy to both Kaylin and the residents who visit with her cat, the facility's director of recreation said there is a deeper reason for the activity.

"There are some people who don't respond," said Josh Post. "It perks them up with an animal. Studies show it chills them out. It slows down their heart rate."

And Post said another benefit is the memories Bella brings out in those who spend time with her.

One such example occurred when Lawana Sanders spent a few minutes with Bella.

"We had pots in our house," Sanders told Kaylin while holding Bella. "The cat would get in the pots and knock all the dirt out and just play. We would get mad for a minute and say, 'Who done that?' "

"My cat died and left six kittens a week old," resident Helen Lee said as she stroked Bella. "Mom and I fed them on a bottle. I found a home for all of them."

Then she spoke to the cat. "Oh, you are so sweet. Look at the pretty eyes. Oh, you are so beautiful, yes."

Kaylin has committed to bringing her cat to the care center three times a month as part of her volunteer oath to Intermountain Therapy Animals. She is currently the organization's youngest and the youngest to have ever come from the Ogden area.

"Not everybody her age could do this, but she's very capable," said Kathy Klotz, executive director of Intermountain Therapy Animals.

Kaylin and Bella both had to certify with the organization. And because Kaylin is so young, her mother, Terri Davis, also had to certify with the cat so she could supervise the pair's activities.

Pets Helping People is the motto of the group, which is made up mostly of dogs and their handlers.

Klotz said of 300 teams in Utah, only a handful are made up of people and cats at any given time.

"Kaylin and Terri are in a very exclusive, small group because there are not many cats who like to do this job," Klotz said.

"Not many cats are people oriented," Davis said. "Normally, cats are (single)-person or place oriented."

The most important rule in pet therapy training, Kaylin's mother said, is to never let go of the cat's leash.

Kaylin did that this week only when her mother took over the leash briefly.

It was to allow Kaylin to pick up and return a picture at the request of an elderly resident who wanted to tell her young guest all about her family.

"I always have to be with her and guide her and instruct her," Davis said.

Davis has been a pet therapist for nearly 12 years and takes her cat, Bonnie, to the rest home on a schedule similar to Kaylin's.

Davis got the idea of becoming involved in pet therapy while showing her cat, Kasey.

"A judge said, 'This cat has a wonderful personality. Have you thought about pet therapy?' " Davis recalled. "At that time, there wasn't a lot known about it. I found an Intermountain Therapy Animals article in a magazine."

That cat, in the end, became a much better therapy cat than a show animal, she said.

Davis hoped for a similar result when she rescued Bella as a kitten. She knew instinctively that Bella would be good for the job.

"She put her paws on my shoulders," she said. "I said, 'You've got that people gene.'

"Bella is young," Davis said. "Kaylin is young. Hopefully, they will be able to go on with this for many, many years."

Declawing is amputation

The cat we had for 19 years was declawed, and we never detected a problem for him or with him in regards to the lack of claws.  He was outdoors much of his life on Lake Michigan and enjoyed the exploits of a hunter/explorer.  Now, he is gone, and we adopted a kitten from the Humane Society.  We have leather furniture, and I don't want her to get into trouble.

Article written by Veterinarian Dr. Christianne Schelling

Above all, don't declaw.

Please, take that as a given. Declawing is not an acceptable option for the beautiful, loving animal that depends on you. The reasons to avoid declawing are compelling, for you as well as for your cat.
Declawing is literally maiming a cat, a mistake that can lead to physical, emotional and behavioral complications. It is erroneous to think that declawing a cat is a trivial procedure similar to trimming fingernails. A cat's claws are a vital part of its anatomy, essential to balance, mobility and survival.
Declawing is an irreversible surgical procedure that involves amputating the last joint of the cat's "toes." It is a very painful procedure with strong potential to secondary complications. (Imagine having the last joint of your own fingers amputated. Not a pleasant idea.)
On rare occasions declawing may lead to secondary contracture of the tendons. This makes it uccomfortable for the cat to walk. Since the last joints of their front paws are missing, they compensate by placing more of their weight to the hind quarters, causing them to be out of balance. This shift of weight to the hind quarters may lead to atrophy of the muscles of their front quarters.
Being out of balance is extremely distressing to a cat, whose very life is about balance. You've observed cats climbing trees, teetering perilously on a single branch, leaping incredible heights to land on a pre-selected spot, or threading in and out of complex arrangements of knickknacks without disturbing a single ornament. (Unless, of course, they choose to do so.) These are acts of balance and part of a cat's basic heritage.
In addition to being an intrinsic part of a cat's normal conformation, its front claws are a cat's primary defense. Once declawed, there is no replacement or regrowth of the claws. You may think, "My cat never goes outside." But what if your cat accidentally gets outside and you can't find her? She is now defenseless in a potentially hostile environment.
Deprived of its front claws a cat may become insecure and distressed. I can assure you that if Kitty becomes emotionally distressed, you will too. Kitty's display of distress tends to take such forms as urinating on your favorite rug or spraying your antique armoir. Feeling defenseless without her claws, Kitty may become hostile to people (including you), and to other cats and become more apt to bite.
Some cats develop an aversion to their litter box because of the pain associated with scratching in the litter after a declawing procedure. If Kitty doesn't go in the box, she will find a more comfortable place to do her business. Often times, these habits are hard to break.
One more compelling reason not to declaw. Some European countries have ruled declawing illegal! It is considered inhumane.
For more information on declawing, please visit www.declawing.com.
Now its time to lighten things up and provide you with some solutions

Remember: Knowledge is power

Understanding the situation is half the battle. You and your cat are about to teach each other some valuable lessons.

Lesson 1-Scratching is a natural behavior for cats.

This isn't exactly a revelation, since you probably have the evidence everywhere--in the tattered corners of your sofa, the shredded drapes, your frayed nerves. Though Kitty's natural propensity for scratching may not be big news, it is a fact that you'll need to take into account if you're to make any headway in winning the battle to keep her from scratching in places you consider undesirable.

Lesson 2- You can't keep your cat from scratching.

What you can do is stop her from scratching those items you value and want to keep in their relatively pristine state.
Bear in mind Mark Twain's advice, which applies universally: Never try to teach a pig to sing; it frustrates you and annoys the pig. Translate this bit of wisdom to your dealings with cats and you'll avoid a good deal of futility and frustration.
You can't make a cat do anything she doesn't want to do. Get clear on that. And getting her to stop something she enjoys is just about as difficult. Therefore you have to think smart and re-channel her desires.

A word about punishment--Don't do it!

Cats don't understand physical punishment. In addition to it being wrong to hit your cat, punishment simply doesn't work and is likely to make your situation worse. Clever though Kitty is about many things, she won't understand that you're punishing her for scratching the couch. She will only compute that sometimes when you catch her she is treated badly. This may make her insecure and stimulate her to scratch more or develop other undesirable behavior problems.
Eventually you will break the trust and security that is the basis for your cat's relationship with you, and you will find it very difficult to catch her for any reason at all.
Cats have excellent memories and hold serious grudges.

Lesson 3- Why do cats scratch?

More to the point, why do they scratch your prized possesions? Understanding your cat's need to scratch is more than just an act of charitabilty on your part. It's the key to channeling Kitty's efforts to more acceptable areas.

Marking their territory

Scratching is a territorial instinct by which cats place their mark and establish their turf. Through scratching, cats mark their domains with more than just visible signs of claw marks. Cat's paws also have scent glands that leave their own special scent on their territory.
And this is why they mark the most visible portions of your house. It's Kitty's way of adding her own personal touch to your (and her) home. Her version of interior decorating.

Exercise

Scratching also serves to keep your cat in shape. The act of scratching stretches and pulls and works the muscles of a cat's front quarters--a cross between a feline gym workout and Kitty Yoga.

Sheer pleasure

Hey! It feels good to scratch.
So give up the idea of reforming Kitty's desire to scratch. Rechannel her into scratching where you want her to. You'll both be happier.

Lesson 4- Provide your cat with an appropriate scratching post.

Since your cat brings you so much joy, you decide to buy her the softest, prettiest and most luxurius scratching post you can find. You take it home and your feline friend gives you a blank stare and walks away. This activates your parental guidance mechanism and you decide to show her how to use the post by taking her front paws and making scratching motions at the post. She of course struggles till she gets free of you and then treats you with utter disdain for the rest of the day.
Never make the mistake of trying to "show her how" to scratch anything. You'll only offend her. She knows pefectly well how to do it. She just reserves the right to scratch when and where it suits her.

Lesson 5- Remember, we said appropriate.

Bear in mind that your idea of desirable and Kitty's may not coincide. Cats like rough surfaces that they can shred to pieces. (The exception of course is your velvet couch, which has its own particular appeal.) The scratching post with the most aesthetic appeal to your cat is often a tree stump, though this is a bit unwieldy in a one-bedroom apartment. Whatever post you choose, it must be tall enough for her to fully extend her body, and most important, it must be secure. If it topples over even once, she won't go back to it.
Sisal scratching posts are ideal for releasing Kitty’s primal urges. This is a material she can shred to pieces with great satisfaction. I am referring to the sisal textile material, not the sisal rope. Sisal material has a perfect texture and grain for kitty to shred, and that is what she wants to do. (Studies have shown most cats prefer to mark their territory with vertical shredding marks, sisal textile provides the perfect surface for this behavior.) Be sure not to throw it away when it is shredded, since that’s when she’s broken it in satisfactorily, and she will not appreciate your tidiness.

A good post should be tall enough for your Kitty to fully stretch her body, usually at least 28 inches tall, and should be very stable. An excellent example of an exceptional scratching post is the Purrfect Post.
The reverse side of rugs provides a good, satisfyingly resistant texture for clawing. You can place a piece of rug material over an area of carpet wher Kitty has already been scratching. However, it must be stationary. Secure it so it doesn't move by duct taping the edges or placing it under furniture. You can also staple pieces of rug to a wall or post.

Lesson 6- How to get Kitty to prefer the post.

Remember that an important part of scratching is the cat's desire to mark a territory, so a scratching post should be in an area that's used by the family, not hidden in a back corner. After a time you can move the post away to the periphery of the room, but you'll need to do this gradually.
Initially, put the post where your cat goes to scratch. This may be by a sofa, a chair or wherever Kitty has chosen as her territiory, and you may need more than one post to cover her favorite spots. Security is a major factor in making the post appealing to your cat. If it topples or shakes, she won't use it. It should either be secured to the floor or have a base wide enough and heavy enough to keep it stable.
Encourage Kitty to use her post with clever enticements. Feed her and play with her by the post. Rub dried catnip leaves or powder into it. Make all the asssociations with the post pleasurable. Reward her with a favorite treat when she uses it. Have her chase a string or a toy around the post or attach toys to it, which will result in her digging her claws into it. Eventually she will learn to love it and regard it as her own. It's also a good idea to put a post where Kitty sleeps. Cats like to scratch when they awaken, especially in the morning and the middle of the night. If space permits, a scratching post in every room of the house is a cat's delight. The most important place is the area of the house in which you and Kitty spend the most time. I have many sisal posts in my house, yet often in the morning my cats line up to use the one in the living room.
If at first Kitty is reluctant to give up her old scratching areas, there are means you can use to discourage her. Covering the area with aluminum foil or double-sided tape is a great deterrent. These surfaces don't have a texture that feels good to scratch.
Remember too that Kitty has marked her favorite spots with her scent as well as her claws. You may need to remove her scent from the areas you want to distract her away from. You will find pet odor removers in pet stores and many supermarkets as well.
Cats have an aversion to citrus odors. Use lemon-scented sprays or a potpourri of lemon and orange peels to make her former scratching sites less agreeable to her.
If Kitty still persists in scratching the furniture, try squirting her with a water gun or a spray bottle set on stream. Another option is a loud whistle or other noise-maker. You must employ these deterrents while she is scratching for them to be effective. The point is to establish an aversion to the spot you don't want her to scratch.

Lesson 7- Start them young.

If you are starting with a kitten, consider yourself fortunate. It's much easier to initiate good habit patterns than to correct undesirable ones.
From the beginning teach your kitten the appropriate place to scratch. Use the methods already described, especially playing around the scratching post to capture her interest. Take advantage of your kitten's desire to play and attach toys to the post. She will soon "dig in" to catch her toy and discover how good it feels to scratch this surface.
Do not take her paws and make her scratch the post. This is a major turn-off and will only inspire a bratty "you can't make me" attitude. Even at an early age, cats refuse to be coerced into doing what they don't want to do.
If she starts to scratch an inappropriate object, immediately place her in front of her scratching post and begin petting her. Some cats will begin kneading when petted, thus digging their claws into the desired surface and establishing this as a fine place to scratch.
Cats are creatures of habit. Start them off with good ones.

Alternate Solutions

Trimming your cat's nails.

Though you should never declaw, you may defray some of your cat's potential for destruction by carefully trimming the razor-sharp tips of her claws. You will find this endeavor more easily accomplished by two people, one to hold Kitty and one to trim her nails. Though she enjoys other forms of pampering, Kitty will not find a manicure soothing.
Gently hold Kitty's paw in one hand and with your thumb on top of the paw and forefinger on the pad gently squeeze your thumb and finger together. This will push the claw cear of the fur so it can easily be seen. You will notice that the inside of the claw is pink near its base. This is living tissue that you do not want to cut. Trim only the clear tip of the nail. Do not clip the area where pink tissue is visible nor the slightly opaque region that outlines the pink tissue. This will avoid cutting into areas that would be painful or bleed. The desired effect is simply to blunt the claw tip. Many different types of nail trimmers are available in pet stores, but I find human toenail clippers easy and effective to use.
If by now you're rolling on the floor laughing because you know your cat isn't about to let you trim her claws, here are a couple of guidelines that will help make this a possibility: Patience and preparation.
Rushing into a full-scale claw trimming is a foolhardy move unless you're really into operatic drama and traumatic events. As you well know, cats hate to be restrained. And they don't like you fooling with their paws, which comes across as threatening. After all, their claws are a major tool for survival, and Kitty may consider your motives suspect.
This is where preparation comes to the rescue. For approximately a week before her manicure, begin making Kitty accustomed to having her paws handled. While petting and soothing her, start massaging her paws, especially on the under side. Gently press on the individual pads at the base of her claws. You may want to give her treats to reward her for not protesting. (Or as in the case of my own cat, to distract her from doing so.) The point, of course, is to make the process reassuring so that she will eventually feel comfortable enough to let you handle her paws without protest.
Next, be patient. Don't attempt to trim all her nails at once. Trim one or two at a time, reward her with affection or food, and then let her do as she wishes. Cats are not strong on patience or restraint. As the creature theoretically higher on to evolutionary scale, that's your department. Don't attempt to change your cat. Instead make it tolerable for her. Eventually trimming will become a completely non-traumatic experience.
For a more detailed explanation and pictures of how to trim your cat's claws click here.

Soft Paws^®--An excellent alternative

If all of this is too time consuming and you have a strictly indoor cat, you have another very desirable option; a wonderful product called Soft Paws^®. These are lightweight vinyl caps that you apply over your cat's own claws. They have rounded edges, so your cat's scratching doesn't damage your home and furnishings. You can find Soft Paws^® on the web by clicking here or call 1-800-989-2542.
Soft Paws^® are great for households with small children, as they guard against the child getting scratched. They are also extremely useful for people who are away from home all day and simply can't apply the watchfulness neccessary to train a cat to use a scratching post. An important caveat here, however; they should be used only on indoor cats, since they blunt one of the cat's chief means of self-defense. Soft Paws^® last approximately six weeks once Kitty becomes accustomed to them. At first they may feel a bit strange to her and she may groom them excessively, causing them to come off sooner. She'll get used to them quickly though, and thereafter they will last longer. It is amazing how well cats tolerate the Soft Paws^®, most don't even notice they are wearing them.
Soft Paws^® come in a kit and are easy to apply. Just glue them on. They are generally applied to the front paws only, since these are what cause most of the destruction to your home. A kit will last approximately three to six months, depending on your cat. After applying the Soft Paws^®, check Kitty's claws weekly. You may find one or two caps missing from time to time, and these are easily replaced using the adhesive included in the kit. To make application easier for both you and your cat, follow the instructions on accustoming your cat to having her paws handled that are discussed here in the section on trimming your cat's claws.
The great majority of cats tolerate Soft Paws^® well. The brattiest of my own cats, a princess who is hyper-fastidious, wears them with aplomb. On her, by the way, one Soft Paws^® kit last at least five months.

As a checklist, here are the pertinent things to remember:

1- Don't declaw!
2- Understand your cat's need to scratch.
3- Forget punishment--it doesn't work.
4- Provide a suitable place for your cat to scratch.
5- Make the scratching post attractive to Kitty-- i.e. use sisal posts.
6- Make the place she's been scratching unattractive--physical or scent related deterrents.
7- Whenever possible, start cats young.
8- You may want to trim your cat's claws.
9- For indoor cats, consider Soft Paws^® as extra insurance, or

Funny Halloween pets

Funny Halloween pets

Does My Cat Have Alzheimer's?

Published: Saturday, October 30, 2010, 5:00 AM

 KAREN STEINROCK, For The Patriot-News 
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Dear Karen:

My 15-yr-old male cat has always gotten along nicely with our 11-year-old female cat until this past weekend. His tail got big and fluffy and he physically attacked her for no apparent reason. This occurred two more times after dinner time –almost like “sundowning” in people with Alzheimers.

My theory is that Max had a temporary lapse of memory and didn’t recognize her and was perhaps protecting his territory. He also gives out an almost guttural meow/howl for some time before he calms down/lays down.

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I don’t remember ever seeing an article on dementia in senior cats and if this is what you suspect, I appreciate you trying to help us out.

Cindy Miller - Whitehall

Dear Cindy:

At 15, it’s entirely possible Max is experiencing some cognitive decline. The symptoms of feline dementia are quite similar to Alzheimer’s in humans. Confusion and agitation tend to worsen towards the end of the day.

All but one of my cats has lived well into their late teens and each displayed some form of dementia in their final years. It usually started with odd vocalizations and advanced to confusion as to time of day, changes in sleep patterns, and minor scraps between the elder kitties.

The most common symptoms of “kitty Alzheimer’s” include:

1. Loud vocalizations beyond a simple meow.

2. Increased agitation and restlessness, especially at night

3. Altered relationships/irritability towards human family members or other pets

4. Changes in appetite – forgetting to eat or not remembering when they do

5. Decreased self grooming

6. Memory loss – forgetting to use the litter box; not recognizing other “beings”

7. Disorientation – getting trapped in corners, not knowing where they are

Research conducted by Scottish veterinary surgeon Dr. Danielle Gunn-Moore shows that 28% of cats aged 11 to 14 and up to 50% of older cats could be affected. She recommends a diet fortified with antioxidants and vitamins, as well as stimulating playtime with kitty’s favorite humans. Applying a feline appeasement spray, such as Feliway, to kitty’s sleeping areas may also help to reduce stress. More advanced cases may require medications and dietary changes prescribed by a vet.

An annual exam is critical for senior cats, as many signs of physical pain can be mistaken for dementia. Because our feline friends are living longer they are more prone to diseases common in human aging, such as arthritis, cancer, and kidney failure so you definitely need to have him vet checked. Also, try to provide a calm, stress free environment that may include special resting quarters for him.

My kitty Otis started exhibiting signs of dementia about a year ago. He often stares into space and howls at nothing. Providing gentle exercise, some grooming assistance and reminders to eat help him feel like his old self. Plus we added another litter box in an open location “just in case”.

As with aging humans, this is when our once robust, independent companions need us for quality end-of-life care-- a labor of love when you understand the changes that are taking place.

Dear Karen:

Regarding the cat who hisses at and attacks the son-in-law, you should have suggested he come to the house armed with catnip or cat treats in hand. It will only take a visit or two to calm kitty down and turn them into the best of friends. It could be she can’t stand the strong scent of whatever he is wearing especially if it is the scent of another cat on his clothes.

Ramona Ruhf – Bethlehem

Dear Ramona:

Excellent suggestion. However, since this fellow doesn’t like cats he may not cotton to the idea of rewarding kitty with goodies after their previous run-ins. I’m pretty sure he doesn’t smell like other cats unless he’s playing hard to get! Thank you for writing.